Category Archives: Australia

Update and Heading North

The TWBR team now consists of 5… Steve and I, Caki, Elena and Jimmy Swift, who has been riding dirty with us since Sydney. El Chapitan and Kira have gone off on their own and we wish them safe travels. Currently we are hanging out in and around Darwin in the Northern Territory getting some work done, cleaning out the trucks and getting ready to move on into South East Asia. It is nice and hot up north but also very tropical so after a week in the outback, it is a relief to be somewhat free of the red dust that has attached itself to everything we own although it has been replaced with sticky sweat. The outback was very interesting and is filled with a mixture of amazement and wonder but also has it’s fair share of awkwardness and straight-up weirdness.

There is not much out there in the outback, hence the name I imagine… only a handful of small towns and cattle stations to pass through on the Stuart Highway. We covered the 1,500 km from Alice Springs up to Darwin with not much to see, although we did pull over and snap some shots as we crossed over the Tropic of Capricorn. Our stay in Australia is coming to an end and it is hard to believe that later this week we will be parting ways once again with the trucks, although hopefully for a much shorter period of time.  Next move for us-getting on a plane bound for Indonesia.

In other exciting news, Panasonic has finally decided to release the codecs that we have been waiting for and need to start editing all of the HD video we have been shooting thus far. This is exciting news as we were losing our patience and even began the process of reformatting hardrives on our laptop in order to install a new operating system which would have involved a lot of time and energy. We hope to sort through the hours of footage we have and within a short period of time, should have some great stuff up on the website. We are also filming a new promo/introduction piece here that should also be up soon given our recent technological development. Panasonic told us March… it is almost May, but I guess late is better than never.   

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Into the Outback

When people including myself think of the Outback we picture a hot dry land void of life except for some Kangaroos and a few odd characters. That’s pretty much the way it is. Driving in the Outback isn’t as hard as people say it is, all you have to do is make sure you have enough food and water in case you run out of gas. There are stretches of land where the next gas stop could be 300 miles, so buying extra gas tanks and strapping them to the roof is a good idea. We bought a total of four extra cans ourselves, but unfortunately we did not to fill them up expecting to be able to fill them along the way. Our first stretch was lined with quite a few options for fueling according to the map. 

We passed through a small town called Boulia, a great option for filling those extra tanks, but decided to push on to a town called Middleton. It’s just a small dot on the map miles from nowhere and local intel confirmed that we should be able to get gas there. We were still miles away from Middleton as the sun started to slip behind the burnt Australian backdrop. We were told by many different locals NOT to drive at night because of the danger of hitting a Kangaroo. At this point we had no choice, as we wanted to make it to a place that might have a TV so we could watch the footy (Rugby) match. We drove into the night with the sight of the low gas light blinking and me hanging out the window in hopes of catching us on camera running down a roo. After a bunch of close calls but no dead Roo’s, we were getting really close to running out of fuel. Before we could start to panic a small flickering light appeared over the horizon revealing that little light as Middleton. It was our lighthouse ushering us in. Once we pulled in we found that this town only consists of one house that acts as the gas station, hotel, bar, disco, restaurant, and everything else under the sun.

It’s owned by a bloke named Lester, which is the real Wally from the movie Crocodile Dundee. After spending an hour or so exchanging stories over a few beers, we found out that they were out of gas until Monday (3 days time). Low and behold Lester’s son in law Stoney, a bush cattle helicopter pilot, had some chopper fuel. Now we weren’t sure how good chopper fuel is for our trucks, but Stoney said “no worries mate” so with that we filled up our gas guzzling American trucks.

After refueling the next morning before we could leave, Stoney offered up some helicopter rides. Steve jumped in with the camera and set off for what turned out to be one hell of a ride. Stoney was showing off a little bit for the cameras as he screeched through the sky 2 feet off the ground, he would zoom right by our trucks with the blades only inches from hitting our roof racks. In the end we got some awesome footage and a taste of a real outback experience, one that you can’t find in a guidebook or tour group. This moment called “Middleton” only lasted for 12 hours but it will be with me forever. I know this journal entry doesn’t necessarily go into to much detail, as this moment was mine, and one that will never ever be able to be done justice in an email. As we drove off we all watched Middleton fade back into the Horizon just as it appeared, leaving it for someone else to discover.

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Hilton Hotels with Cow Pie Pillows

As an inexperienced traveler, joining up with two crazy men driving around the world is like diving in head first. It seems that in this kind of environment where places come and go so fast, there is almost no time to think about how the traveling is effecting you. After checking back into a clean air conditioned hostel in Darwin fresh out of the outback, I had a moment to think and some of the effects of this journey became clear.

Back home in beautiful Denver Colorado every night I fall soundly asleep in a bed of crisp white sheets with a ridiculous thread count. There are more than eight pillows of varying firmness, an egg crate, feather bed and a big soft down comforter. Cleaning is a part of the everyday routine of life in my single apartment, no dust bunnies allowed. This little piece of heaven that is home has taken many years to perfect. Before joining the World by Road I made the decision to keep this apartment as home. Knowing that this cozy space would be waiting for me when I returned was very important for my sanity… My how things can change.

There were many reasons to join this wild road trip, but one of the biggest was to experience something new-something beyond cozy white sheets. The east coast of Australia is not much different from the standards I held back in Colorado. We stayed in posh rooms set to an American standard of luxury. When camping, the grounds were organized with showers and lights. However, the day the trucks turned into the outback it was clear we were driving away from the clean, tourist oriented and expensive coast of Australia toward a whole new kind of envoirnment.

The second night in the outback changed my life forever. The team ended up in a town called Middleton after the sun had gone down. This "town" consisted of one house. This house is a home, a pub, a truck stop, and a gas station. The family that lives in this multi purpose seemingly run down building shares their space with more bugs than I have ever seen in one place. The lights of the porch illuminated spider webs as high as the roof full of crickets, mozzies, flies and many other insects I can’t even classify. Turning the corner of the house in route to the ladies "bathroom", I had to stop and catch my breath. The little outdoor bathroom was best described by Jimmy as walking into the movie Arachinphobia. At this point, my very first panic attack seemed immenent and I decided it best to go back into the house and have a beer. Walking back inside I heard the words Hilton. What!? The friendly looking old man behind the dirty counter informed me it was across the street.  Relieved I headed outside and soon found that my idea of a Hilton was much different than what lay in front of me. As I walked back inside the crew was laughing at my haste to go visit the hotel. The Hilton was actually a wide open dirt field next to where the cattle are kept. It had a proper sign nailed to a barn that was open on all sides and covered in hay.

The team began to set up the tents in the vast open darkness, where only small patch of the red soil was illuminated by the headlights of the trucks. I pulled out the pillows from the back of the car, opened my sleeping bag, 3 inch thick sleeping pads, and all of the cozy pieces of camping gear I could find. While I was making the bed, which is far too comfortable to find in a tent, it occurred to me that this tent set in a beautiful field of red dirt was better than any Hilton. Instead of finding comfort in silly expensive sheets, I find the same feeling when I zip up the door and keep all the bugs out of my bed. I get to wake up every morning and look outside to find myself in a new and beautiful place.

Waking up to the Australian outback is an experience few are privileged to have, and I will never forget. The scary little house of spiders was much different that morning. The red dirt was rich in the sun light and it was apparent that the little old white house I feared the night before was well loved and full of history.

I often wonder what it must be like for the Steves to have no home. When I would talk with them about the trip before this all began, the idea of being on the road for two years seemed so rootless. The idea of fitting all the things you need into the bed of a truck sounded like crazy talk. That night in Middleton showed me that they have a home here. Their tent is their room, they are their own little family, and the world is their apartment.

I have heard so many people talk about the value of traveling. Before joining this expedition, I equated traveling to vacationing. What I realize now is if you get out there into the world and stay in a clean white bed like you left at home, there is no challenge. If I wasn’t in a tent that night in the middle of that dusty vast, next to a corral, knee deep in spider city I may never have been enlightened to the difference. When I return home I will not pitch a tent in the middle of my apartment as a physical protest to my bed. Instead, I will crawl into my clean white sheets with a new appreciation for home and fall asleep constructing imaginary routes of where I plan to travel next.

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Enjoying the Present but Always Preparing for the Future

Anyone that witnessed the arrival of the Tundra and the Sequoia in Sydney can tell you that I was extremely excited but even more so, relieved. Planning for and shipping the Toyotas occupied a good deal of my attention before and after we left the States and in the process, may have also took a few years off my life. It is great to have them here in Australia and I feel that finally the World by Road has officially started, but no sooner than they arrived, I was already planning for their departure to Singapore.

We chose to ship the trucks to Singapore as opposed to shipping them to Indonesia mainly because of the complications involved in getting them from island to island in Indonesia and then onto the mainland of SE Asia. Additionally, Singapore has relatively straight forward procedures for temporarily importing a foreign registered vehicle and having carnets makes it even easier. However, there is still a fair amount of work and planning involved no matter what country you ship a vehicle to. 

Getting the trucks into Singapore involves notifying and receiving approval from several agencies all done while we are on the move… me calling from Australia and Indonesia, the Toyotas somewhere in the Timor Sea, customs officers in Darwin, the Automobile Association of Singapore (AAS) in Singapore, etc. Wait a minute. The Automobile Association of Singapore? Why the AAS you ask? Well, the AAS has to issue us an invitation to enter the country (a formality) and endorse the carnets (for a fee). Additionally, the Land Transport Authority has to approve of the vehicles at the request of the AAS and when all of that is done, the Singapore Traffic Police have to be made aware that we are driving left-hand drive vehicles. Technically, left-hand drive vehicles are not let into Singapore that often, but for the right fee and with the placement of a caution sticker on the back, apparently it is not really a problem. I guess we will find out next month!

Singapore does represent the last time we will have to box up and ship the vehicles which will be a huge relief. True, there will still be a lot of work getting across the borders of many of the countries that we will be traveling through, but at least we will have the vehicles in sight and will be dealing directly with the people that control whether we get in or not.   

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Dust, Dust, Everywhere Dust

They say once you have been to the outback, you take a part of it with you. O.K. I don’t think anyone said that, but it sounds cool and is definitely relevant. The fact of the matter is, whether you want to or not, the outback does stay with you and it stays with you in the form of the red dust that attaches itself to anything and everything that you own if you venture off the sealed roads.

It would not be a true outback experience without doing a 4×4 track and putting the Tundra and the Sequoia through some outback "road trials." As such, our path took us down the Plenty Highway which consists of 600 kilometers of dirt roads stretching from Boulia in Queensland to Gumtree in the Northern Territory. A staple of the Plenty highway is the fine red bulldust on the track and there is certainly plenty of it. Unaware that the tailgate of the Tundra came with a particularly large gap between the gate and the bed of the truck, we made our way down the track, kicking up a dust trail that could be seen for miles and forcing the trailing vehicle to stay nearly a kilometer behind in order to see the trail ahead.

Upon arrival at our first stop on the track, we prepared to set up camp and opened the back of the Tundra only to find that nearly everything in the topper was covered in a thick layer of red dust. Dust had been blowing through the gap in the bottom of the tailgate for several hours and at a force that had even piled it up half an inch in some spots. When I say nearly everything had been covered, this is no exaggeration. Even items inside zippered luggage and sealed bins had not been spared. With jaws dropped we started to slow process of assessing the damage from this blow "pun partially intended" that was certainly below the belt.  The one thing that numbed the blow to a certain extent was that it was a result of something that was not directly our fault. However, given the issues we had with customs and quarantine, there is no doubt that we have at least a day of work ahead of us once we get to Darwin to prevent further headaches when we ship the Toyotas to Singapore. Everything that was in back of the Tundra needs to be hosed out, wiped down and sterilized of the dust that has even managed to permeate the passenger cab of the vehicles… cabs that were pressurized to an extent by the use of fans and A/C. If anyone has any doubts, I am confident there will still be some hanging around when we return back to the states in a a year or two.

 

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