Category Archives: China

It is affecting us all.

After making our way through Inner Mongolia and leaving China, the sight of the sky and fresh air in our lungs was like exiting some sort of biosphere project testing how much pollution the human body can handle in one sitting. After three weeks in China, our lungs were beaten down and each breath was painful. The view from the street in Beijing only leant a line of sight no farther than 3 blocks before the buildings on the street would fade away into gray smoke.

It has been 3 months since the expedition was in China. Steve Bouey still has a bad cough or some sort of lung infection that most certainly originated in China. Everywhere you turn in China people carry on with little unhealthy, persistent coughs. Our guide Jason told us that he had a cold when we first met him, but the cold lasted with the same little cough for the entire 3 weeks we were there.

Of all the things we have encountered on the road, the pollution in China is one that still haunts me on a regular basis. Only 1 percent of the country’s 560 million city dwellers breathe air considered safe by the European Union. It is pretty easy to see why Steve B. has lung problems after we spent about 90% of the time in cities. Even while driving the thousands of kilometers on the route through China, over and over Jason repeatedly told me, “This area is heavily industrialized.” The truth is that most of the country is heavily industrialized, and lacking any sort of environmental regulation. In fact Haushan, one of the five ancient sacred mountains in China, is less than 6 miles away from a 5 stack coal power plant. The mountain was completely blocked from sight by the smoke on our visit. Imagine if the Tetons or Yellowstone had industrial zoning with factories using technology from the early 1900s right near the entrance to the park.

It is estimated that somewhere between 400,000 and 700,000 people die prematurely from air pollution each year in China. The leaders in China have declined the use of tax policies and incentives for conservation. Loans for heavy polluters are readily available and relatively inexpensive. With double digit economic growth each year in China, the government and citizens seem to have lost any vision for the future, as their health care costs shoot through the roof and the environment they rely on for survival becomes a wasteland that cannot preserve life. The acid rain and wastewater pollution from toxic factories in the north have caused epidemics of cancer in villages throughout the region.

So why is it that so many people that I talk to about China have no idea that the pollution is this bad? The Chinese government does their best to cover all of it up. China’s State Environmental Protection Agency engineered the removal of statistics in a World Bank study, the Financial Times reported, because the government feared the figures could trigger social unrest. While in China I attempted some research for this blog and found that Wikipedia was blocked, along with the New York Times, the BBC and more. The only sites that I could find pollution statistics while in China were grossly underreported.

On my most recent search on “China Pollution,” of the hordes of articles available, a few of the titles read:

“China’s Rare River Dolphin Now Extinct, Experts Announce”

“Chinese Air Pollution Deadliest in World, Report Says”

“As China Roars, Pollution Reaches Deadly Extremes”

“Pollution Darkens China’s Skies”

It is amazing why more citizens of the world are not up in arms about this. The effects of this pollution are causing acid rain in Japan and Korea. In Los Angeles, much of the particulate pollution originates in China according to the Journal of Geophysical Research. This year, in fact, China has even surpassed the United States on the amount of pollution they produce. Many times when I bring all of this up the immediate argument is that we cannot get mad at China for having an industrial revolution like the US and Britain had centuries ago. This argument seems so strange since “The Industrial Revolution” refers to the introduction of industry to the world. Back then we did not know any better, today China should. Just because one country makes a mistake does not give the rest of the countries in world the right to make a similar mistake with consequences that make the original Industrial Revolution look like Earth Day.

Check out this photo from on Wikipedia. Where does all of that pollution go after the rain? Could it possibly end up in the watershed? It would seem a strange coincidence that coastlines exist in China that can no longer sustain any marine life due to the algal red tides. As we always say when people ask us about the mission of The World by Road, the main stream media has a tendency to sensationalize stories to make them marketable. For whatever reason, it seems that the story of China’s pollution problems is not sensationalized enough. We have dedicated a photo gallery to Chinese pollution on the site…check out the photos and make the decision for yourself just how bad this problem is.

Extra bonus points if you can find the great wall on this blue sky dayThe haze in Chengdu was bad enough to prevent the auto focus on our camera from working properlyOne of the 342 or so coal fired power plants we drove by during our 3 weeks in ChinaLike most cities in China, you can't see more than a block or two on a good dayBouey trying to clear his lungs near Xi An - notice the mountains in the background - oh wait you can'tThe air was so bad near Xi An, you could even see the pollution inside the Terracotta WarriorsThe hills surrounding the Terracotta army obscured by haze not cloudsWe went to Huashan to hike one of the most dangerous trails in the world only to find the air is even more dangerousWe went to Huashan to hike one of the most dangerous trails in the world only to find the air is even more dangerousHey, that truck needs a tune upOh wait, maybe the environment needs the tune upA powerplant was constructed less than 5 kilometers from one of the holiest mountains in ChinaA powerplant was constructed less than 5 kilometers from one of the holiest mountains in ChinaIt was actually a pretty clear day at the Longmen cavesYeah rightAll of the smog makes for nice sunsets I guessPower plant number 561The city skyline is out there somewhereNo comment We had to get our emissions checked before entering the China to protect the environment

More links to additional information:

China’s Rare River Dolphin Now Extinct, Experts Announce (December 14, 2006)

Chinese Air Pollution Deadliest in World, Report Says

Environment of China

Pollution poisons China’s progress

As China Roars, Pollution Reaches Deadly Extremes

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New Photos - Central China - 3 Galleries

In Central China we visited the Tarracotta Warriors, Xian, the Longmen Caves, the Shaolin Temple (birthplace of Kung Fu) and more.

Link to Gallery or click the photos below.

Shaolin and More

Another Chinese TWBR fanIf it is not one thing... getting the tire patched in ChinaThese guys really knew what they were doing for onceTire fixed and ready to rock and rollSorry, my guide says I can't give you a ride to BeijingChinese cars and scooters are always decked out with sweet stickersThis Chinese sticker was the most random and without a doubt the coolestThe entrance to the Shaolin Monastery - birthplace of Kung FuFlexing in the same gates Bruce Lee passed through at some pointNo hamstrings were pulled during the shooting of this photoRing the bell for good luck and then fork over $10Every afternoon Kung Fu students take to the practice fieldsThe Shaolin Monastery is still operational as is the prestigious Kung Fu academy Every afternoon Kung Fu students take to the practice fieldsCheap gas and service with a smile (getting someone to smile for a photo = priceless) Like a scene out of Enter the DragonLeap frog must be good for future Kung Fu mastersGroup warm-up at Shaolin

Longmen Caves

Each carving is unique and highly detailedThe Longmen Grottoes are spectacular and make up one of the famous ancient sites in ChinaBuddhist carvings and caves dot a huge area south of Luoyang One can only image how much time and energy went into carving the grottoesEither the ancient Chinese had a great imagination or some pretty bad things existed back thenLarge sculptures surrounding Buddha are the centerpoint of the grottoesPractically every square inch of the site was carvedConstruction of the caves started around 1,500 years ago and continued for another 400 yearsBuddha is the central focus of most of the carvings at LongmenOur guide Jason  took some time out to help others snap off a few shotsEither the ancient Chinese had a great imagination or some pretty bad things existed back thenBouey actually found an area void of other peopleAfter getting his own pic taken, Shop tried to include himself in as many other visitor's photos as possibleThe caves rise over the Yi RiverMore human looking carvings sit to the left of BuddhaEither the ancient Chinese had a great imagination or some pretty bad things existed back thenMore human looking carvings sit to the left of BuddhaBuddha is the central focus of most of the carvings at LongmenOne of the only sculptures of a novice that we saw in ChinaAlthough they have been outside for over 1,000 years, the sculptures have weathered fairly wellI don't know what it is, but it is probably badJason and another Chinese man try to translate some of the carvings at LongmenWalking on ancient carvings can be hazardous to your healthThe Longmen Grottoes were added to the World Heritage list in 2000Bouey finds yet another section of the caves void of peopleA view of the grottoes from across the Yi River puts their size into perspectiveA view of the grottoes from across the Yi River puts their size into perspectiveNo fine, just punishmentThe fact they have to tell people not to spit in the temple reveals a lotPeople were actually trying to ring the bell 18 timesPrayers are released into the air in the form of smoke... along with a lot of other things in ChinaThe temple at Longmen was visited by the first Qin EmperorBouey getting his Zen onRecycling to the left, organisms to the right

Terracotta Army

Like many World Heritage sites in China, Terracotta is new, modern and built to accomodate most of the 1.5 billion who live hereLike most officials in China, this guy was more concerned with looking official than actually doing his jobThe Terracotta Army was found about 30 years ago by farmers digging for a wellThe Terracotta Army dates back over 2,000 years to the Qin DynastyThe Terracotta Army was complete, including horsesThe Terracotta Army was constructed to protect the tomb of the Emperor of Qin  I want to be buried with an army of warriorsThe condition of some of the Terracotta warriors is nearly perfect after more than 2,000 Part of the 100 Yuan entrance fee must go to the construction of coffee kiosksYour dreams can come true but for a price2,000 years old and still intactOne of the many pits where various sections of the Terracotta Army can be foundMost of their weapons have disintegrated over time but the warriors are still ready to protect the EmperorExcavation work is still ongoing at the site of the Terracotta Army

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New Photos - Southern China

We entered China in the Yunan Province of the country and made our way North through the Leaping Tiger Gorge and up to Chengdu. Some of the worst road of the trip made this section very long and difficult, but we were able to see some pretty amazing scenery and history.

Link to Gallery or click the photos below.

Approaching the Chinese border with LaosIt is not a border, it is a Frontier Defense postAfter 30 hours at the border, we were eager to get on the roadImmigration was no problem at allUnlike immigration, customs was expensive and time consumingThe trucks outside the gates to ancient Dali CityAin't no hoppin' this fenceDriving high along side the Yangtze riverTiger Leaping Gorge is a popular spot for locals and foreigners alikeThis is some serious whitewaterThe first of many signs we would see in ChinglishThinking about taking the plunge at Tiger Leaping GorgeIf you do fall in, there is not much hope for youWho would even want to?Shop signals Bouey to that kayaking the gorge is probably a bad idea16 people have died in recent years trying to kayak/raft Tiger Leaping GorgeYao Ming may have been to the temple, but we were the focus of attention that dayOne more for good measureThe Buddhist temple near Lijiang is quite spectacularThe Buddhist prayer rooms overlook the Yangtze valley belowThe Buddhist prayer rooms overlook the Yangtze valley belowThe Buddhist prayer rooms overlook the Yangtze valley belowA local guide gives Jason and Bouey a history lesson about the templeBouey doing a little reflecting at the templeI don't know what is says, but Chinese writing is pretty coolThere are some pretty crazy creatures in Chinese culture and religionOur guide Jason also has a hobby of writting Chinese calligraphyThe Thundra gets an oil change and takes up the entire service bayThe kitchen at one of our guesthouses near Lijiang... glad I got my Hep shotsUnfortunately, this is not fog and represents something we had to deal with for the next three weeksIn addition to McDonald's, you can have you pick of western storesIn China, cornfields seemed to replace the familiar rice fields we were used toOnce the corn is harvested, it is carefully gaurdedDowntown KunmingDowntown Kunming and the first McDonald's we had seen since ThailandLight traffic in KunmingA crowd gathers to inspect the Thunjdra at Tiger Leaping GorgeThe road above the Yangtze got a little narrow and sketchy at timesThe mighty Yangtze flows through a narrow canyon at Tiger Leaping GorgeIf you don't want to take the main road through the gorge, you can take the footpath A Chinese 4x4 club was doing a tour of Southern ChinaWe stopped at a mountaintop temple near Lijiang which draws some famous visitors including Yao MingCrossing the Mekong for about the 10th time... this time iin Southern China

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It is truly a different world.

In each country there are things that happen or things you read that remind you just how upside down the world is that surrounds you.  On my recent trip back to the states, I purchased some 2-way radios for the trucks.  When I was meandering about town trying to find the best setup I found myself in a shop catering mostly to long distance truckers passing through Denver. Inside I explained just what I was up to and the manager looked at me in surprise.  He could not believe that I was only in Mongolia days earlier and now standing right in front of him.

He informed me that the CBs may not be legal in some of the countries that we would be traveling through. I replied by saying, “That’s okay, we can just pay a ‘fee’ to the customs officers and we will be on our way.”

“But, won’t that get expensive?” he replied.

I informed him that these fees are sometimes one or two dollars.  A gentleman behind me interjected, “Man, you really are living in a different world right now, aren’t you?” The truth is we are.  Some days it seems we are so used to it that I surprise my own self with the thoughts I have in my head. I expect it to take 2-3 times as long to get anything done than it would in Western countries.  When we cross borders many times I am surprised to see that the border is organized enough to have a logbook, let alone a computer. Just finding a place to withdraw money can take an entire day or even longer.

Many of our blogs speak of the different customs and cultures we have encountered, but today I have something really special to show you all.  It is a true testament to just how much thoughts, ideas, and the media are controlled in that backwards place we call China. Below is a clipping from a newspaper that one of our latest joinees, Tash, had tucked in her guidebook. It was published in the newspaper in Xi’an no more than 2 months ago.  This article looks like something you might read in a modern uncensored newspaper as a joke, or perhaps the local science journals in 1872.

An elder resident of Xi’an, surnamed Li, said that couples sleeping in the same bed was “not scientific and healthy”.

Li, 67, made a presentation to the city with his idea of separate sleeping arrangements for couples. “You have to take your wife’s breath, and you are disturbed by her moves in the bed with limited room,” he said. “How can you sleep well?” He suggested that couples be separated when they sleep. But some residents disagreed with his ideas, saying that couples should sleep together if they feel comfortable and happy, though other residents thought that Li’s suggestion had some merit. Health experts said that different couples have different ways of sleeping and they should choose whatever way is suitable for them.

Good thing they have some “health experts” on this one. For those of you that do not live in a country that has extreme levels of censorship, take a moment to remember just how privileged you are.

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