Category Archives: Hungary

Smooth Sailing

These days it is smooth sailing for TWBR. Smooth sailing in many ways. We are finally in the heart of Europe… although at the moment we are off on the Scandinavia artery… and with that comes great road surfaces. In fact, in Germany, they pride themselves on having some of the best road surfaces in the world. The road surfaces are so go that on the Autobahn, the German word for motorway encompassing all such roads in the country, there is no speed limit. Of course, authorities recommend that you keep you vehicle under 130 kph (82 mph) but if I had a new Porsche, BMW or Mercedes, I would relish in the freedom the autobahn affords and as you may have guessed, many people do just that. Do not worry, the Toyotas have a governor on them so we were not able to totally risk our lives seeing how fast they can go, but I can say with a cheeky grin that a fully loaded Tundra drives exceptionally smooth at 170 kph (105 mph)… I think I read that in a magazine somewhere.

It has also been smooth sailing in terms of border crossings. I am working right now on calculating just how much time we spent sitting at borders on the expedition to date. We have had to sit at borders whilst waiting for paperwork, waiting for our turn in a one car per hour crossing and in many cases simply waiting for them to open the border in the first place. Now that we are in Europe, driving from country to country it is almost like driving from state to state back home. Here in the European Union, there is an open border policy and you are able to freely travel among EU countries by car without stopping and without any passport control. The restrictions on international travel in Europe were made easier in part by the formation of the EU. When we crossed into Bulgaria, the first European country on our trip, we had to stop, go through passport control, get the vehicles inspected and ensure the customs officials that all of our paperwork was in order, but it was all very organized and simple. There was no passport control leaving Bulgaria, but we still had to stop for a brief check upon entering its EU neighbor to the north, Romania. This was also the case with entering Hungary.

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No one was at the Romanian border to tell us if filming out of the window was safe

When we left Budapest, we fully expected to have to stop again or border formalities before we entered Slovakia and the Czech Republic. These border stops we anticipated would be far from inconvenient as all of the EU crossings to date have amounted to no more than 20 minutes of our time put together. At this point in the expedition, we were so used to stopping at borders and explaining what we were doing that it actually felt very strange to see signs indicating that we had suddenly left Hungary and had mistakenly entered Austria. In any other region in the world, this would probably be a fairly significant problem, but not in this part of Europe. We had made a wrong turn and found ourselves in Austria instead of Slovakia, although it was easy enough to find our way back to the Slovakian border. We were again surprised to find the border control post at the Slovakian/Austrian border completely abandoned and were waived through without stopping at the Czech frontier by the one lone police officer there. It just so happens that if we had left Hungary and drove to Slovakia and the Czech Republic the day before, the empty border offices would have been occupied and we would have had to stop for customs control. The day we crossed into Slovakia and the Czech Republic, December 21, 2007, was they day that these countries, along with a handful of others in Europe, had become party to the Schengen agreement.

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All is quiet on the German border outside of Dresden

The Schengen Agreement basically creates a single external border around its member states thus eliminating the need for internal borders. The agreement makes traveling between these countries hassle free with the exception of trying to figure out if you should fill up your tank before you cross the border because the price of petrol is $1 more per gallon in the next country. Even sea border crossings are greatly simplified. On the ferry from Germany to Denmark, the only indication that you were on an international ferry crossing was the long line of Danes outside the on board duty free shop. The duty free shop opens for a grand total of about 25 minutes enabling people to stock up on booze and cigarettes without having to fork over the 30+ percent taxes they encounter on these items in Scandinavia. All in all, it has been nice not having to worry about what is going to happen at the next international border we cross. We are saving some pages in our rapidly filling passports and do not have to worry about what time the border closes for the evening. Hopefully the ease at which we are able to cross through the next 10 or so countries will not make us soft, because Africa looms on the horizon and I would hedge a bet that things work a little differently down there.

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Time for An Update

I know it has been a while since a real update and everyone is just dying to know what has been going on here at TWBR. We are currently in Budapest, Hungary and leave tomorrow for Prague via Bratislava. It has been an interesting, hectic and cold couple of weeks and a lot has taken place.

On December 6th, we picked up our friend Mark at the airport in Istanbul and headed into Bulgaria. Mark will be joining us for the rest of the trip and it is nice to have some extra help. Steve, Mark and I have been working on a number of things, namely, trying to get a solid crew together for Africa, trying to figure out how to get into Africa, trying to shore up new sponsorships and trying to figure out how to stop our bank accounts from bleeding red ink. We have been cruising through eastern Europe at a fairly quick clip, but have had time to see some amazing things and meet some great people. Time has been flying by on the expedition and almost immediately after crossing into Bulgaria we saw countless reminders that Christmas was near signifying over 10 months on the road.

We took a keen interest in Bulgaria and I think that I can speak for everyone else in saying that it is a place that has been added to the must return to list. It also seems that Bulgarians took a keen interest in the expedition as we were interviewed by the main English speaking newspaper in Sofia and were also interviewed for an article in the Bulgarian edition of Off Road Magazine. Once those articles come out, we will put up links on the website. The USAID mission in Bulgaria also provided us with an opportunity to learn about some of the programs they have helped to support including a micro-lending organization and the National Commission for Combating Trafficking in Human Beings.  In Sofia, we also met a group of “couchsurfers” who were kind enough to show us around town and give us a glimpse of what Sofia nightlife is all about. In between the meetings and the interviews, we did manage to seem some of the sights around Plovdiv and Veliko Tarnovo.

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Bouey prepares to interview USAID Mission Director Mike Fritz in Sofia

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This traditional Bulgarian doll shop was started with the help of the USAID micro-lending program

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Stepping back in time in Veliko Tarnovo

Just as soon as we entered Bulgaria, it was time to leave. Next stop, Romania, and because we had already purchased insurance covering all of the European Union, exiting Bulgaria and entering Romania took all of about 5 minutes. In fact, the border crossing process was so hassle-free and painless, that Steve and I wondered if we had missed something. We drove through the complex and complicated streets of Bucharest and onward to Brasov in the midst of a severe winter blizzard. The drive to Brasov was actually one of the more sketchy experiences of the expedition… sub zero temperatures, 60 mph wind gusts, near white-out conditions, empty windshield washer fluid reservoirs and icy roads all after dark. Needless to say, we made it into the heart of Transylvania without any problems, although what was supposed to be a five hour drive took nearly 12. The fresh coat of snow made for some picturesque moments in Romania and we did manage to stop by and visit Bran Caslte, the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

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Fresh coat of snow over the town of Brasov, Romania

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Dracula’s Castle is a Transylvanian landmark

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Gathering firewood the old fashioned way in Romania

It was another long day behind the wheel from Brasov, Romania to our current location in Budapest. We have been using the great internet access here to research Africa, plan out the next few months, and finalize some deals with new and exciting sponsors. We also met back up with Zsofi here in Budapest. Zsofi was a member of Trabant Trek and we met in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. There was a good chance that Zsofi would be back in her hometown of Budapest when we drove through two months after meeting her and as luck would have it, she was. Zsofi filled us in on the trials and tribulations of the Trabant guys as they passed through Siberia and Mongolia and has shared some great local sights in arguably one of the coolest cities in the world. We also met up with our friend Lori here in Budapest. Lori is from Colorado but currently lives in Prague teaching English and coincidently has a little time off for the holidays and will be riding shotgun with us for a few weeks.

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Budapest is definitely a world class city

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Ironic… Bouey and Mark look for hostels after finding a wireless hotspot in Budapest

So there is the last two weeks in a nutshell. We are on our way to Prague tomorrow and will spend a few days there before heading to Berlin for Christmas. From Berlin, we dash through Denmark on our way north through Sweden and Norway in an attempt to make it to the northernmost point in Europe at North Cape while trying not to totally freeze to death. After North Cape, we make a B-line back down to the U.K. to meet up with some more friends and family and by early February, hello Africa… which I finally think we have decided on a route. The route through Africa is far from what we had imagined or originally anticipated and will be an adventure to say the least, but I will hold off on that until the time comes because a lot can and probably will change in the next six weeks.

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