Category Archives: History

Roadside Shrines

Having your own mode of transportation has a lot of benefits. We have said countless times that there is no substitute for having the ability to explore a country free of the constraints of public transportation and on your own schedule. When you have your own transportation, I believe you become a lot more aware of your surroundings, especially the small details that might blur by the window of a bus or a train. One thing that I have noticed a lot of here in South America are roadside shires. If you ask any of the other members on the expedition, they might actually go as far as suggesting that I have become obsessed by these roadside tributes, especially when I slam on the brakes to go and take a closer look at them.

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Cape to Cape: Check

In the United States, you may not have heard about the driving the “Cape to Cape” run . I guess there may be some scenic drives or highways that go from Cape A to Cape B, but the Cape run I am talking about is the drive from North Cape, Norway to Cape Agulhas, South Africa. It is a drive that overlanders dream about and only a handful actually complete in their lifetimes. There are obviously more direct routes to drive from the northern most point in Europe to the southern most point in Africa, but for us, the journey covered roughly 17,000 miles, spanned about 110 degrees of latitude, took us through 29 countries and lasted approximately 6 months.

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Six months ago, we were in the far northern reaches of the Arctic

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As we made our way to Cape Agulhas, instead of reindeer, we were on the lookout for turtles

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Although chilly, it was a bit warmer at 34.5degrees South latitude

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The marker in Norway was nicer, but where else can you swim in two oceans at the same time!

We are not the first people to drive the Cape to Cape run, but it is definitely a small number of people, mainly Europeans… I can probably extrapolate a bit further, hedge a bet from our experiences and say that most of the members of the Cape to Cape overland family are either Dutch, Scandinavian or South African. Now add some nutty Americans to the group. I am fairly certain that we are the first Americans to complete the Cape to Cape run as part of our overall expedition. We received a lot of support and encouragement along the way. In fact, some South Africans we met in Angola shouted enthusiastically “finally, some Americans with some balls,” when we stopped on the side of the road to chat. The road was very tough at times, but we made it and looking back it was well worth it. We still have a good portion of the trip left, but this was a major segment of the expedition and one that we anticipated would be one of the toughest. I am sure South America will hold some surprises in store for us, but our experiences here in Africa will help us to prepare for what the next continent throws our way.

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What Is Wrong With People?

Sitting here in Pointe Noire, Congo, I am starting to go a little crazy. It has been nearly two weeks since we arrived and applied for our Angola visas and we are still waiting. I have been trying to pass the time by reading and reflecting upon the Africa segment of our journey and given all that has transpired here in Africa, I have really only been able to focus on one central theme: corruption. I have become obsessed with corruption. I find myself constantly trying to find out more about the varying levels of corruption in the different countries we have passed through and trying to make sense of our daily encounters with corruption here in Pointe Noire. Each of my conversations with members of the ex-pat community here in the Congo always wind their way back to corruption, and when we are able to get online in between the random yet still somehow consistent power outages here in town, I am looking for more information as to the prevalence of corruption and what if anything can be done to put and end to it… especially here in Africa. I am obsessed to the point at which I can say that in 2007, the Republic of the Congo ranked in the top 10 percent of countries in the world in terms of corruption. (If you want to see where everyone else falls on the Perceived Corruption Index, check out Transparency International’s Annual Report)

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“I don’t think you used your turn signal, give me 100,000 CFA!”

Photo courtesy Schalk van Zuydam, Associated Press

Personally, I believe the problem of corruption in Africa is immense. It ranges from our daily encounters with overzealous and underpaid police officers trying to extort money from us for ludicrous and falsified infractions to the top levels of government… politicians who have padded their own personal offshore bank accounts at the expense of the development of their country and the progress of their citizens. The numbers are staggering. According to a 2006 World Bank report, it estimates that half of all funds donated to health efforts in sub-Saharan Africa… billions of dollars… never reach the clinics or hospitals, instead leaking out in the form of payments to ghost employees and payments for padded customs, transportation and warehousing prices. It seems like you can not build a single road, bridge or building without some public official benefiting. During his 10 year rule in Zambia, president Frederick Chiluba stashed away nearly $46 million of public money in his offshore bank account but that pails in comparison to the estimated $5 billion Charles Taylor had in offshore accounts while he ran Liberia into the ground, or the estimated billions that Zimbabwe president Robert Mugabe has reportedly stashed away in Switzerland while his country teeters on the verge of total economic collapse.

Africa has a lot of problems. Humanitarian problems, economic problems, social problems. The list goes on and on. I am by no means an expert on Africa and I have hardly been here long enough to formulate any reasonable opinions on the cause for all of the misery here on the continent and I am certainly in no place at this stage to recommend any solutions. But I am observant and I do have a background in politics and public policy and that, coupled with my recent obsession with everyone and everything corrupt, has led me to become more and more convinced that all of Africa’s problems stem from two things: a systematic lack of transparency in government operations and a lack of the rule of law. Without transparency and respect for the rule of law, Africa and it citizens will continue to suffer. Sure, most of the problem can be blamed on the endless list of African dictators who have used government institutions for personal gain, but I think the people too can be blamed for not reining in the excess of these plundering politicians. “People power” can be an effective and successful tool against government largess, but it seems to be stagnant and ineffective here in Africa. It is almost like people do not care that their leaders are driving their country into the ground and taking them with it.

The African continent represents one of the poorest regions in the world, yet in terms of natural energy and resource wealth, it is one of the richest. Oil and gas has the potential to provide much needed revenues and has allowed countries throughout the world to address the problems that they face, yet in in Africa, the revenues from energy production represent a curse: corruption runs rampant, waste is chronic and the gap that has developed between the extremely rich and the desperately poor is essentially insurmountable. It is painful to see how much potential Africa has for development yet in reality, how that potential has been squandered, wasted and tucked away into the pockets of the connected elite.

So what can be done? Is Africa destined to become one of history’s monumental failures? Are the people of Africa doomed to be forever victimized by tyrannical despots destined to profit at the expense of their citizens? It is without a doubt a monumental problem requiring a multitude of complex solutions and one that will take years, if not generations to correct, but I guess I can take some comfort in knowing that people are trying to right the ship. The United States has recently developed the Millennium Challenge Account (MCA) which provides funding to developing countries on the condition that they meet strict criteria for good governance; the responsible management of government affairs, services and finances, and other lending organizations such as the World Bank are implementing similar criteria for the disbursement of their loans. Unfortunately, many developing countries in Africa with newly discovered mineral and oil reserves such as Angola and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) are turning to other investors, namely China, who delivers billions in development funding in return for access to natural resources but without conditions of good governance, human rights, or economic reform. To the Chinese, “business is business.”

So providing development funding on the condition that the money is used appropriately alone will not work. Pressure has to come from elsewhere, namely from the citizens of these countries and countries throughout the world demanding greater transparency in the public sector and demanding that they become party to the billions of dollars being extracted from onshore and offshore reserves. Given what I have seen here in Africa, if I had to deal with the same problems day in and day out that people do here, I would probably be right along side people in picking up guns and fighting, but violence is not the answer and will only continue to push these countries closer to the point of no return. Something needs to be done to force leaders of countries in Africa to be accountable for their actions and to be accountable to their constituents. One thing is certain, there needs to be a fundamental change in attitude not just in people and nations wishing to help, but in people here in Africa, because the situation seems to only be getting worse… (case in point; Zimbabwe, Sudan, and Somalia) and programs like the MCA are only Band-Aid approaches to stemming the blood flow from a hemorrhaging wound.

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Hello From the top of the World

Hello everyone! I hope the new year is treating all of you great. It is really hard to imagine that it is 2008 and Steve and I have been on the road for nearly a year now. Over the course of that year, we have covered nearly 28,000 miles and passed through many different countries. Every single mile we have driven and each of the countries we passed through have been milestones in their own right, but yesterday we reached a big one. A lot of people thought we were out of our minds in attempting to reach the North Cape in the middle of winter… a lot of people thought we were out of our minds leaving on this trip in the first place I guess, but I have to admit, North Cape was definitely a bit out there, I mean up there. It was not easy or cheap and in the end we had to pull a few strings to actually get there, but we successfully made it as far north as we can drive in Europe. There is one point that is technically one kilometer farther north, but North Cape represents the farthest you can actually drive in your own car and considering it is only about 1,300 miles from the North Pole, it is good enough for us. It is not too often you can say you drove all the way from the cliffs of Cape Otway overlooking the Southern Ocean to the cliffs of North Cape overlooking the Arctic Ocean in one trip… halfway around the world north to south.

The roads we encountered on our journey north were in pretty good shape. The road surface has been snow-packed and covered with a thick layer of ice, but the roads are open and for the most part, they did not hamper our progress. This is kind of ironic because I am now writing this blog entry stranded in Hammerfest, Norway because the roads leading north and south have been closed due to extremely high winds… we were supposed to make it to Tromso to catch a ferry south but have been informed the roads will be closed for the remainder of the night thus forcing us to alter our plans. The lack of daylight has not really been a problem either, although it is like being in a recurring episode of the Twilight Zone. It has been cold, but Sweden, Norway and Finland are actually experiencing one of the warmest and driest winters on record… maybe Al Gore is onto something. So, given all of the conditions that worked in our favor, we were extremely shell-shocked to find that the road was closed just 12 kilometers from the Cape.

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When it is light out, you realize you are in a pretty remarkable place

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Ice on the road catches the headlights of the Tundra

We backtracked 30 kilometers to the town of Honningsvåg where we were informed that the road to the Cape is essentially closed to private vehicles for the winter. When we heard the woman at the information center say "essentially," we knew that there was still a way up there. We found out that there is a bus that takes tourists up to the Cape once per day, but taking the bus would obviously mean leaving the Toyotas behind. The fact that busses are even allowed up to the Cape in the middle winter we were told is pretty rare and they have only been doing it for about three years. After a little more poking and prodding, we found out that a few times per year, private vehicles are allowed up to the Cape, but only in an escorted convoy… a snowplow leading the way and a safety vehicle bringing up the rear. It was beginning to sound like the 12 kilometers to North Cape past the point of no return was the most dangerous stretch of road in the world.

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We thought we had made a very long trip for nothing

After a little more Q&A at the information desk and a few phone calls, we found out that if we wanted to go up to the Cape with the Thundra and Little Pepe, we could arrange for the escort the next day. We also found out how much it cost, but surprisingly enough, the price of hiring out the snowplow and the driver was about the same as the cost of the bus ride! Cost of the bus ride for three people = 2,100 NOK. Cost of the snow plow escort = 3,000 NOK. We hade made it this close and although we are totally broke, we knew we had no choice but to cough up the cash for the escort to the Cape even with the weak and beat-down US dollar bringing us only a touch over 5 Kroner.

The next morning, we went back to the Royal North Cape Club offices to pay for the plow only to find out that we had been "misinformed" about the price. As part of the escort, we would also have to pay 1,800 NOK per hour for the safety truck. We still had no choice. We had to do it. It would be one of those decisions that you would regret for the rest of your life, although at $41 a kilometer for 24 kilometers of escort, the decision definitely hurts in the near term. Obviously, cost precludes a lot of people from driving their cars up to the Cape in the winter. Cost, coupled with the fact that the Norwegian road authorities only made the decision to partially open the road to escorted traffic three years ago, means that you can basically count on your hand the number of people who have driven up to the actual Cape in the winter. After Steve swiped his credit card, we were informed that we were officially going to be the first Americans to drive our cars up to North Cape in the middle of winter. The decision to pay the money and go for it was already starting to pay dividends… now we just had to make it up what seemed like the road of death.

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Ready for the Cape

In the end, the road of death was far from it. It was icy and snow-packed and if you made a mistake, there were no guardrails to protect you from a 600 foot plunge off a cliff into the icy depths of the Arctic Ocean, but we have seen worse. So we made it… 71 degrees, 10 minutes and 21 seconds north latitude and we made it just as the sun was starting to set for the day, further rewarding us with an amazing backdrop. "Not too many people in their right minds drive up here in the winter," we were told by a man who referred to himself as the Nar-Viking. Well, obviously we are all a little "off" here at TWBR, but we can now claim the title of being the first Americans to successfully make it to the North Cape in our own vehicles in the dead of winter.

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The North Cape marker and the Arctic Ocean behind the trucks

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The first Americans to drive a car (x 2 in background) to North Cape in winter

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Where Has All of the Water Gone?

One of the areas that I wanted to visit since the beginning of this expedition was the Aral Sea. The Area Sea straddles Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan and these days is not really much of a sea anymore. In fact, experts believe that the desertification of the entire body of water could be complete in the next 15-20 years. The Aral Sea was once a massive body of water that was home to a variety of life and supported a vibrant fishing industry. Today, little is left of the fishing industry and the shrinking waters have become too contaminated with pollutants and chemical weapons waste to sustain much life of any type. The Aral Sea has recently split into the North and South Aral Seas and it is expected to divide again as it continues to dry up.

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Bouey imagines what life was like when the sea was here while Karie tries to figure out how to use binoculars

The cause of the “Aral Sea Disaster,” as many refer to it, is the diversion of water from the sea to irrigate and sustain cotton cultivation in an extremely inhospitable and arid environment during the Soviet Era. Although the level of cotton production has declined and become more efficient, the diversion of water for irrigation continues. The canals diverting water from the sea lead off in every direction and reach as far away as Turkmenistan. However, poor maintenance and resource planning means that very little water actually makes it to it’s intended destination. Some people say that up to three times as much water is being drained from the Aral Sea as is replenished by natural sources.

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The sign on the outskirts of town is evidence of what life used to be like in Moynaq

It is hard to imagine the magnitude of the effects the desertification of the Aral Sea are having in the region unless you see them firsthand. In fact, the effects are being felt as far away as Kyrgyzstan, where high concentrations of salt, sand and chemicals lifted from the dry seabed have been carried thousands of kilometers by winds. In the immediate area, the rainy season has shrunk from an average of 150 days of rain per year to a stunning 35… most likely due to the atmospheric effects of the shrinking sea.

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To our surprise, life limps on in Moynaq

Thanks to the freedom of our Toyotas, we were able to visit the once thriving fishing town of Moynaq in the remote and isolated Karakalpakistan province of Uzbekistan. The shoreline of the Aral Sea now lies nearly 150 kilometers to the north of Moynaq. There are many towns like Moynaq, but here, the rusting, skeletal remains of a once proud fishing fleet that lay scattered across the sand dunes are a striking image of the ecological and economic impact that have been left in the wake of the receding waters.

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Remnants of the fishing fleet litter the landscape

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Moynaq used to have a population of over 2,000. By our estimates, the present population could not be more than 500. At least that is what it felt like. Moynaq was a total ghost town and everyone was left puzzled as to why any of the remaining residents would chose to stay out here literally in the middle of nowhere. After our arrival, we immediately spotted a few small boats rusting in the desert, but it was only after a few local children pointed us in the right direction that we found what we were looking for.

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Small pools are all that remain of the Aral Sea in Moynaq

I have seen pictures of these boats before, but only after you see them with your own eyes, laying in the Martian-like  landscape that has become their grave, do you really start to understand what has happened in Moynaq and the surrounding area. I did a lot of thinking here. Why did they leave the boats here? Why didn’t they move them with the water? Why do they continue to drain water from the sea? Are there any other alternatives? Does anybody care at all?

Seeing what was left of the Aral Sea at Moynaq is unlike anything I have ever seen before. Hopefully, the governments in the region can come to an agreement on a solution, and hopefully experts and scientists are able to identify one that can restore part of the Aral Sea or at least stop its current evaporation. Unfortunately, by the time that happens, I fear it will be far too late and the entire region will be left to deal with the effects. Governments have been arguing over and scientists have been studying the Aral Sea for years. According to locals, if every scientist who visited the Aral Sea simply brought a bucket of water with them, the problem would already be solved. 

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