Tag Archives: China

What Is Wrong With People?

Sitting here in Pointe Noire, Congo, I am starting to go a little crazy. It has been nearly two weeks since we arrived and applied for our Angola visas and we are still waiting. I have been trying to pass the time by reading and reflecting upon the Africa segment of our journey and given all that has transpired here in Africa, I have really only been able to focus on one central theme: corruption. I have become obsessed with corruption. I find myself constantly trying to find out more about the varying levels of corruption in the different countries we have passed through and trying to make sense of our daily encounters with corruption here in Pointe Noire. Each of my conversations with members of the ex-pat community here in the Congo always wind their way back to corruption, and when we are able to get online in between the random yet still somehow consistent power outages here in town, I am looking for more information as to the prevalence of corruption and what if anything can be done to put and end to it… especially here in Africa. I am obsessed to the point at which I can say that in 2007, the Republic of the Congo ranked in the top 10 percent of countries in the world in terms of corruption. (If you want to see where everyone else falls on the Perceived Corruption Index, check out Transparency International’s Annual Report)

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“I don’t think you used your turn signal, give me 100,000 CFA!”

Photo courtesy Schalk van Zuydam, Associated Press

Personally, I believe the problem of corruption in Africa is immense. It ranges from our daily encounters with overzealous and underpaid police officers trying to extort money from us for ludicrous and falsified infractions to the top levels of government… politicians who have padded their own personal offshore bank accounts at the expense of the development of their country and the progress of their citizens. The numbers are staggering. According to a 2006 World Bank report, it estimates that half of all funds donated to health efforts in sub-Saharan Africa… billions of dollars… never reach the clinics or hospitals, instead leaking out in the form of payments to ghost employees and payments for padded customs, transportation and warehousing prices. It seems like you can not build a single road, bridge or building without some public official benefiting. During his 10 year rule in Zambia, president Frederick Chiluba stashed away nearly $46 million of public money in his offshore bank account but that pails in comparison to the estimated $5 billion Charles Taylor had in offshore accounts while he ran Liberia into the ground, or the estimated billions that Zimbabwe president Robert Mugabe has reportedly stashed away in Switzerland while his country teeters on the verge of total economic collapse.

Africa has a lot of problems. Humanitarian problems, economic problems, social problems. The list goes on and on. I am by no means an expert on Africa and I have hardly been here long enough to formulate any reasonable opinions on the cause for all of the misery here on the continent and I am certainly in no place at this stage to recommend any solutions. But I am observant and I do have a background in politics and public policy and that, coupled with my recent obsession with everyone and everything corrupt, has led me to become more and more convinced that all of Africa’s problems stem from two things: a systematic lack of transparency in government operations and a lack of the rule of law. Without transparency and respect for the rule of law, Africa and it citizens will continue to suffer. Sure, most of the problem can be blamed on the endless list of African dictators who have used government institutions for personal gain, but I think the people too can be blamed for not reining in the excess of these plundering politicians. “People power” can be an effective and successful tool against government largess, but it seems to be stagnant and ineffective here in Africa. It is almost like people do not care that their leaders are driving their country into the ground and taking them with it.

The African continent represents one of the poorest regions in the world, yet in terms of natural energy and resource wealth, it is one of the richest. Oil and gas has the potential to provide much needed revenues and has allowed countries throughout the world to address the problems that they face, yet in in Africa, the revenues from energy production represent a curse: corruption runs rampant, waste is chronic and the gap that has developed between the extremely rich and the desperately poor is essentially insurmountable. It is painful to see how much potential Africa has for development yet in reality, how that potential has been squandered, wasted and tucked away into the pockets of the connected elite.

So what can be done? Is Africa destined to become one of history’s monumental failures? Are the people of Africa doomed to be forever victimized by tyrannical despots destined to profit at the expense of their citizens? It is without a doubt a monumental problem requiring a multitude of complex solutions and one that will take years, if not generations to correct, but I guess I can take some comfort in knowing that people are trying to right the ship. The United States has recently developed the Millennium Challenge Account (MCA) which provides funding to developing countries on the condition that they meet strict criteria for good governance; the responsible management of government affairs, services and finances, and other lending organizations such as the World Bank are implementing similar criteria for the disbursement of their loans. Unfortunately, many developing countries in Africa with newly discovered mineral and oil reserves such as Angola and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) are turning to other investors, namely China, who delivers billions in development funding in return for access to natural resources but without conditions of good governance, human rights, or economic reform. To the Chinese, “business is business.”

So providing development funding on the condition that the money is used appropriately alone will not work. Pressure has to come from elsewhere, namely from the citizens of these countries and countries throughout the world demanding greater transparency in the public sector and demanding that they become party to the billions of dollars being extracted from onshore and offshore reserves. Given what I have seen here in Africa, if I had to deal with the same problems day in and day out that people do here, I would probably be right along side people in picking up guns and fighting, but violence is not the answer and will only continue to push these countries closer to the point of no return. Something needs to be done to force leaders of countries in Africa to be accountable for their actions and to be accountable to their constituents. One thing is certain, there needs to be a fundamental change in attitude not just in people and nations wishing to help, but in people here in Africa, because the situation seems to only be getting worse… (case in point; Zimbabwe, Sudan, and Somalia) and programs like the MCA are only Band-Aid approaches to stemming the blood flow from a hemorrhaging wound.

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New Photos - Central China - 3 Galleries

In Central China we visited the Tarracotta Warriors, Xian, the Longmen Caves, the Shaolin Temple (birthplace of Kung Fu) and more.

Link to Gallery or click the photos below.

Shaolin and More

Another Chinese TWBR fanIf it is not one thing... getting the tire patched in ChinaThese guys really knew what they were doing for onceTire fixed and ready to rock and rollSorry, my guide says I can't give you a ride to BeijingChinese cars and scooters are always decked out with sweet stickersThis Chinese sticker was the most random and without a doubt the coolestThe entrance to the Shaolin Monastery - birthplace of Kung FuFlexing in the same gates Bruce Lee passed through at some pointNo hamstrings were pulled during the shooting of this photoRing the bell for good luck and then fork over $10Every afternoon Kung Fu students take to the practice fieldsThe Shaolin Monastery is still operational as is the prestigious Kung Fu academy Every afternoon Kung Fu students take to the practice fieldsCheap gas and service with a smile (getting someone to smile for a photo = priceless) Like a scene out of Enter the DragonLeap frog must be good for future Kung Fu mastersGroup warm-up at Shaolin

Longmen Caves

Each carving is unique and highly detailedThe Longmen Grottoes are spectacular and make up one of the famous ancient sites in ChinaBuddhist carvings and caves dot a huge area south of Luoyang One can only image how much time and energy went into carving the grottoesEither the ancient Chinese had a great imagination or some pretty bad things existed back thenLarge sculptures surrounding Buddha are the centerpoint of the grottoesPractically every square inch of the site was carvedConstruction of the caves started around 1,500 years ago and continued for another 400 yearsBuddha is the central focus of most of the carvings at LongmenOur guide Jason  took some time out to help others snap off a few shotsEither the ancient Chinese had a great imagination or some pretty bad things existed back thenBouey actually found an area void of other peopleAfter getting his own pic taken, Shop tried to include himself in as many other visitor's photos as possibleThe caves rise over the Yi RiverMore human looking carvings sit to the left of BuddhaEither the ancient Chinese had a great imagination or some pretty bad things existed back thenMore human looking carvings sit to the left of BuddhaBuddha is the central focus of most of the carvings at LongmenOne of the only sculptures of a novice that we saw in ChinaAlthough they have been outside for over 1,000 years, the sculptures have weathered fairly wellI don't know what it is, but it is probably badJason and another Chinese man try to translate some of the carvings at LongmenWalking on ancient carvings can be hazardous to your healthThe Longmen Grottoes were added to the World Heritage list in 2000Bouey finds yet another section of the caves void of peopleA view of the grottoes from across the Yi River puts their size into perspectiveA view of the grottoes from across the Yi River puts their size into perspectiveNo fine, just punishmentThe fact they have to tell people not to spit in the temple reveals a lotPeople were actually trying to ring the bell 18 timesPrayers are released into the air in the form of smoke... along with a lot of other things in ChinaThe temple at Longmen was visited by the first Qin EmperorBouey getting his Zen onRecycling to the left, organisms to the right

Terracotta Army

Like many World Heritage sites in China, Terracotta is new, modern and built to accomodate most of the 1.5 billion who live hereLike most officials in China, this guy was more concerned with looking official than actually doing his jobThe Terracotta Army was found about 30 years ago by farmers digging for a wellThe Terracotta Army dates back over 2,000 years to the Qin DynastyThe Terracotta Army was complete, including horsesThe Terracotta Army was constructed to protect the tomb of the Emperor of Qin  I want to be buried with an army of warriorsThe condition of some of the Terracotta warriors is nearly perfect after more than 2,000 Part of the 100 Yuan entrance fee must go to the construction of coffee kiosksYour dreams can come true but for a price2,000 years old and still intactOne of the many pits where various sections of the Terracotta Army can be foundMost of their weapons have disintegrated over time but the warriors are still ready to protect the EmperorExcavation work is still ongoing at the site of the Terracotta Army


New Photos - Southern China

We entered China in the Yunan Province of the country and made our way North through the Leaping Tiger Gorge and up to Chengdu. Some of the worst road of the trip made this section very long and difficult, but we were able to see some pretty amazing scenery and history.

Link to Gallery or click the photos below.

Approaching the Chinese border with LaosIt is not a border, it is a Frontier Defense postAfter 30 hours at the border, we were eager to get on the roadImmigration was no problem at allUnlike immigration, customs was expensive and time consumingThe trucks outside the gates to ancient Dali CityAin't no hoppin' this fenceDriving high along side the Yangtze riverTiger Leaping Gorge is a popular spot for locals and foreigners alikeThis is some serious whitewaterThe first of many signs we would see in ChinglishThinking about taking the plunge at Tiger Leaping GorgeIf you do fall in, there is not much hope for youWho would even want to?Shop signals Bouey to that kayaking the gorge is probably a bad idea16 people have died in recent years trying to kayak/raft Tiger Leaping GorgeYao Ming may have been to the temple, but we were the focus of attention that dayOne more for good measureThe Buddhist temple near Lijiang is quite spectacularThe Buddhist prayer rooms overlook the Yangtze valley belowThe Buddhist prayer rooms overlook the Yangtze valley belowThe Buddhist prayer rooms overlook the Yangtze valley belowA local guide gives Jason and Bouey a history lesson about the templeBouey doing a little reflecting at the templeI don't know what is says, but Chinese writing is pretty coolThere are some pretty crazy creatures in Chinese culture and religionOur guide Jason also has a hobby of writting Chinese calligraphyThe Thundra gets an oil change and takes up the entire service bayThe kitchen at one of our guesthouses near Lijiang... glad I got my Hep shotsUnfortunately, this is not fog and represents something we had to deal with for the next three weeksIn addition to McDonald's, you can have you pick of western storesIn China, cornfields seemed to replace the familiar rice fields we were used toOnce the corn is harvested, it is carefully gaurdedDowntown KunmingDowntown Kunming and the first McDonald's we had seen since ThailandLight traffic in KunmingA crowd gathers to inspect the Thunjdra at Tiger Leaping GorgeThe road above the Yangtze got a little narrow and sketchy at timesThe mighty Yangtze flows through a narrow canyon at Tiger Leaping GorgeIf you don't want to take the main road through the gorge, you can take the footpath A Chinese 4x4 club was doing a tour of Southern ChinaWe stopped at a mountaintop temple near Lijiang which draws some famous visitors including Yao MingCrossing the Mekong for about the 10th time... this time iin Southern China