Tag Archives: north cape

Cape to Cape: Check

In the United States, you may not have heard about the driving the “Cape to Cape” run . I guess there may be some scenic drives or highways that go from Cape A to Cape B, but the Cape run I am talking about is the drive from North Cape, Norway to Cape Agulhas, South Africa. It is a drive that overlanders dream about and only a handful actually complete in their lifetimes. There are obviously more direct routes to drive from the northern most point in Europe to the southern most point in Africa, but for us, the journey covered roughly 17,000 miles, spanned about 110 degrees of latitude, took us through 29 countries and lasted approximately 6 months.

_DSC0310

Six months ago, we were in the far northern reaches of the Arctic

_DSC0013

As we made our way to Cape Agulhas, instead of reindeer, we were on the lookout for turtles

_DSC0479 mod

Although chilly, it was a bit warmer at 34.5degrees South latitude

_DSC0490 mod

The marker in Norway was nicer, but where else can you swim in two oceans at the same time!

We are not the first people to drive the Cape to Cape run, but it is definitely a small number of people, mainly Europeans… I can probably extrapolate a bit further, hedge a bet from our experiences and say that most of the members of the Cape to Cape overland family are either Dutch, Scandinavian or South African. Now add some nutty Americans to the group. I am fairly certain that we are the first Americans to complete the Cape to Cape run as part of our overall expedition. We received a lot of support and encouragement along the way. In fact, some South Africans we met in Angola shouted enthusiastically “finally, some Americans with some balls,” when we stopped on the side of the road to chat. The road was very tough at times, but we made it and looking back it was well worth it. We still have a good portion of the trip left, but this was a major segment of the expedition and one that we anticipated would be one of the toughest. I am sure South America will hold some surprises in store for us, but our experiences here in Africa will help us to prepare for what the next continent throws our way.

If you're new here, you may want to subscribe to my RSS feed. Thanks for visiting!


New Photos - North Cape (Nordkapp)

In the far far north of the northern part of the north European country of Norway, there lies a cliff encircled point called North Cape.  This is the farthest you can drive north in Europe and a truly majestic site.  With giant cliffs, tunnels, ice covered roads and little to no light, the drive up to here is a true adventure in the middle of winter.  The sub zero temperatures, snow storms, wind and incredible hunger that abides when darkness is far more common than light nearly drive you mad as you count the number of days since the sun has actually shined on you.

On our speedy journey to the north and the little information we could gather about making it all the way to the cape led us to a closed gate just 12 kms from the finish line.  After a day of driving around trying to find the right people we were able to get a convoy with a snow plow and safety car to take us to the top, but at a cost…it ended up costing $1000 for that last 12km, and although that $1000 is still sitting on my credit card accruing interest…to all of us it was well spent.  We drove all the way from Cape Otway Australia, over 30,000 miles through jungles, deserts, mountains, rivers, rebels and more to make it there and nothing would stop us.

Considering the safety truck was less prepared than we were if something was to happen and the plow had already been up that day so the road was already clear, the price was for little more than the Norwegians making yet another dollar off of us. Expensive for nothing, but worth it.

Link to Flickr

Link to TWBR Gallery

The open plains no longer support tree life at this latitude.It is unbelieveable that they went to the trouble to build a road all the way up here along the side of these sheer cliffs.The usual 2pm loss of light, you cannot really call it a sunset since the sun never rises up here.There is more light in the tunnels than there is in the middle of the day.The roads are 100% solid ice for the last 1000km approach to the North CapeThe colors from the polar night are reason enough to come up hereThe tunnels have doors up here to prevent them from icing up.1000s of kms later we realized that the Norweigans will never miss a chance to add another fee.Without a convoy of snowplow and safety car, you cannot drive the last 12kmsThe final town before the last stretch of road to NordKappWith screaming winds and sub zero temperatures, a day of fliming only allows minutes outdoors before frostbite sets in during thThis was one of the coldest moments of the trip trying to film for 30 seconds with the wind blowning strong enough to knock you This is a true life shot, no posing, just pure cold.The is the end, after the run with the snow plow and safety truck we finally reached the farthest north point.In my Mongolian Dahl, I setup shots of the trucks with the last bit of light.The giant cliffs around NordKapp are breathtaking.The parking lot is not quite all the way to the point.So we had to walk the last few hundred yards to the globe.Thousands of miles of driving, countless nights sleeping in the trucks, and three tired crew members later, we were there.Inside there are photos of what the midnight sun looks like, circling the sky in summer.Time to leave the cape.Here is the $1000 plow that we had to pay to plow a total of zero inches of snow for us, and the safety car?  Less equipped thatThere is nothing like this moment.  We made it all the way north...in winter!!

 


Here comes the Sun..dit ta do do.

P1080024The Hurtigruten has been steaming its way, or I guess nowadays you would say powering its way up and down the Norwegian coastline for the last 100 plus year. During that time the operation has gone from one small boat to a large fleet with boats picking up passengers daily from 34 ports, starting the trip north from Bergen and returning south from Kirkenes. Long ago the boat was more purposeful as it carried mail up and down the coast to all of the hard to reach towns in the fjords and islands along the coast.

Today not much mail is transported back and forth by these ships. Now the cargo is hundreds happy vacationers looking for a diversion from their work or daily lives. For lunch today we dined in the main restaurant. Lining the walls of both sides of the room are windows that give everyone a spectacularly changing view of the scenery as it passes by. Today this moving view was the “Seven Sisters” peaks that are the inspiration for many Norwegian fairy tales and poetry. After stuffing ourselves with crab legs and meats and salads and desserts, the sun started to set. Normally the setting sun is something we all might categorize as simply a nice part of the day when the sky produces some spectacular colors and landscapes. However for us this sunset has a little more meaning.

P1080031On our quest for the trophy of conquering the North Cape in the middle of winter, we left the sun behind nearly two weeks ago. With bad weather since around Christmas, we had not seen the sun for quite a while before entering Scandinavia. Once we arrived in the land of the north, we quickly made our way above the Arctic Circle where we spent over a week…until now. Our treat today was a chance to interview the captain of the ship and film him navigating into the harbor of Sandnessjoen. I knew that we must be getting close to the Arctic Circle on the map so I asked the captain where we were. Apparently this town would be our last stop before crossing the official line south.

Both Mark and I were hungry, so after we finished up with the Captain on the bridge, we hurried down to the restaurant to be the first in line for the buffet at lunch. I really thought nothing of the fact that we were about to cross over the official Arctic boundary in the scurry downstairs to get fed. While we were eating, the boat left the harbor and started pushing on south and just as we finished up our second plates of the delicious desserts, Mark said to me, “There is a glow on the mountains behind you.” That was the moment we left the Arctic and the setting sun actually rose above our horizon to give us a total of about 10 minutes of time with that wonderful burning orb of gas I missed so much for the last couple of weeks.

The Northern Lights are an amazing thing to see, and I will most certainly take any chance to see them again. This last 10 days without sun is the longest period I have ever gone without seeing the sun. With the incredible beauty that lies up north, the aurora borealis, the fjords, and the mountains I can see why people choose to live up here, but for me…I will continue my love affair with the sun. Sitting here on the Hurtigruten after a successful trip to North Cape and a truly amazing sunset is definitely a stylish way to start the journey south…Africa here we come!

Steve making some calls on the bridge.

_DSC0401

Helping to steer the boat.

_DSC0419

Okay, okay the Captain really steering the boat.

_DSC0439

The captain and his charts.

_DSC0391

10 beautiful minutes of sun.

_DSC0452_DSC0456